19 August 2009

Back to the Volcano

This is my first blog from Chã das Caldeiras (from São Filipe technically…no internet in Chã). I moved a few weeks ago and am very happy. Much more so than in São Filipe, which was, well, terrible. Our second year PCVs are heading off to whatever awaits them, so it’s sad to see them go. On the other hand, I’m excited to meet the new trainees who most likely are currently struggling with Kriolu, illness, and adjusting to Cape Verdean life and culture, especially for those who’ve not traveled to the developing world before. Cancun isn’t the developing work, either…

As I’ve worked on this blog at various times, I’m continuing from the São Filipe airport, where, our national carrier has generously afforded me three extra hours to use my computer, read, be hungry, nap, before leaving for Praia! I’m going to help train the new trainees in things like Kriolu; Português; learning to love Zouk, Funana, Akon, and Chris Brown; how not to get sick anymore; small business skills; PACA; environmental education; and more.

I’m keeping relatively busy, helping at the winery especially. A friend is an enologist who’s teaching me all there is to know about winemaking. It’s interesting, and the winery is a huge benefit to the community. Who knows, maybe after I’ll try to work at Leelanau cellar for a harvest? South Africa’s got wineries too, Mom! Namibia as well. I’m also going to help with accounting, marketing, and determining production costs.

Other than the winery, I’ve spoken with the primary school director on doing a project to improve the school. New paint, functioning bathrooms, windows. Hopefully he’s getting estimates while I’m in Praia. Vamos a ver, né? The water utility is interested in erecting dry, composting toilets, which make perfect sense in Chã because it’s a mile above sea level, doesn’t have readily available aquifers, and pumping water from sea level would be exorbitantly expensive. Water is almost always the most important issue in any decision here.

Cape Verdean kids are required to attend school through 6th grade, which is free. In Chã that’s how far the school goes. Afterwards, they have to go to Cova Figueira, São Filipe, etc. to continue. They need a place to live, school’s not free anymore, and many are pressured to stay at home and farm. Few go, and hardly any graduate high school. Still, a few trickle out and eventually go to university in Praia, Europe, China, or Brazil.

The other day I noticed the professors had posted grades (no confidentiality!) outside the school. I’d observed the 6th grade class once, so I have an idea of the brighter students, the clowns, the quiet ones. I ran into a boy who’s kind of a punk (what 6th grade boy isn’t?), but clearly intelligent, especially in math. I asked if he passed, would he continue 7th grade outside of Chã. “No, my dad doesn’t want to send me.” Yet he ran off, to see if he achieved the necessary 10.5/20. As he dashed away, getting smaller and smaller, I couldn’t help but wonder what’s the use? Whether he got 100% or 0% in the end didn’t matter. Unless he gets a visa, he’s here for good, or gets drafted at 18 and leaves for a year or so. Anyway, he passed.

També n sta djobi pikenas, klaramenti. Ten um ki ta trabadja ku parki sima mi ki n sta tenta di ranja. N atxa ki n ta konsigi go n ka sabi ainda. Podi ser ael é sima kel otu na Txan ki ta fla txeu mintira. Atxa ki no, go. N ten ki da’l fala ora ki n torna bem di praia. Kati kati, poku poku, é ka simé? La na Txan bu ten ki ten un manta bibo bu ntendi?